Sunday, September 10, 2017

Handboarding

MaxWt
3 x dhang MaxWt 18mm x 10"(3):3' - 3x 10 sec deadhangs with max weight on 18mm edge with 3min rests in between, 3 sec margin

MinEdge
3 x dhang MinEd x 10"(2):3'

Intermittent Dhangs (follow app program)


4x4 Intervals: 

A 4x4 consists of 4 sets of 4 boulder problems. You’ll do 4 problems back to back, with no rest between, and then rest for 2 minutes. At 2 minutes, you will begin the next set of 4 problems (which are the same 4 problems you used for your first set, in the same order.) Repeat this until you have done 4 sets (so 16 total boulder problems).
It may take some time to figure out the best 4x4 for you. Aim for problems that are “hard warm-ups” as a good starting point. Also, on your first session or two, it should look something like this: 1st Set: Complete. 2nd Set: Complete. 3rd Set: Failed on 2-3 problems. 4th Set: Total failure.

Monday, February 8, 2016

Nina Williams workout

Warm Up: 20 minutes of easy to moderate bouldering

Round 1: Hangboard Specific Workout

1) 1-Arm Dead Hangs – Pulley System, Half Crimp, 2- Pad Edge
  • Time On: 5 seconds
  • Reps: 3 (alternating sides)
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 6-8
  • Weight Off: Make sure 5 seconds is challenging each rep
2) Dead Hangs – Half Crimp – Quarter Pad Edge
  • Time On: 10 seconds
  • Reps: 1
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 6-8
3) Dead Hang Repeaters – Pinch
  • Time On: 7 seconds
  • Time Off: 3 seconds
  • Reps: 5
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 6-8

Round 2: Power Specific Training

1) Weighted Pull Ups on Rings
  • Reps: 4
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 4-6
2) Weighted Negative Pull Ups on Rings (Video)
  • Reps: 4
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 4-6

Round 3: Core Specific

1) TRX Planks
  • Time: 90 seconds
  • Rest: 1 minute
  • Sets: 3
2) Ab Roller (Video)
  • Reps: 20
  • Rest: 1-2 minutes
  • Sets: 3
3) TRX Right and Left Side Planks (Video)
  • Time: 1 minute each side
  • Rest: 1 minute after you complete each side
  • Sets: 3
4) Crunches
  • Reps: 50
  • Rest: 30 seconds
  • Sets: 4

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Nathaniel Coleman core workout

CORE TIME WORKOUT
Estimated time: 30-40 Min
Rest 1-3 minutes between each named section. Breathing is key! Exhale on contraction of muscle, inhale on release. 
Round 1 is forwards through circuit
-then plank set A
Round 2 is reverse through circuit
-then plank set A
Round 3 is random order circuit
-then plank set B

Circuit:
30 seconds - Bicycles
10 seconds - Six inches 
30 seconds - Penguins

10 seconds - Toe touches
30 seconds - Box Knees 

10 seconds - Flutter Kicks
30 seconds - V-ups( with twist)
10 seconds - Toe touches
30 seconds - Core rotations ?
10 seconds - Six inches
30 seconds - Rowboats

Plank Set A:
20 seconds - forearm plank
10 seconds - side plank
7 second - reach through
3 second - side plank
Repeat side planks/reaches on other side

Plank Set B:
15 seconds - regular plank
15 seconds - right arm reach
15 seconds - left arm reach
15 seconds - left leg reach
15 seconds - right leg reach
15 seconds - regular plank 5 seconds - side plank
5 seconds - reach through
5 seconds - pulsing reach through
Repeat 3 times on right, 
then 20 seconds mountain climbers.
Then repeat 3 times on left, 
20 seconds mountain climbers

Supermans:
I's, Y's, T's, A's, Swimmers:
20 seconds each at own pace

Final planks: 
10 seconds - regular plank
20 seconds - right arm/left leg reach
20 seconds - left arm/right leg reach
10 seconds - right arm/left leg reach
10 seconds - left arm/ right leg reach
30 seconds - regular plank



- *Six inches - Lie on your back, making sure your back is straight and your core is tight. Stretch your legs out in front of you, with your feet together. With your hands by your sides, slowly lift your legs about six inches off the floor. Hold this position, using your stomach muscles to keep you stable. Hold the position for three seconds and rest.

- **Penguins - Touch the toes with right/left hands.

-***Toe touches 

- Box knees



- Flatter kicks

- V-ups with twist 


- Rowboats


Tuesday, November 3, 2015

Pull ups

Pull ups

Я обычно все делаю со среднешироким ;) хватом.

1. Pull up pyramid.
Веселее делать с партнером. Если один подтягивается больше, чем второй, начните с разного количества. Например, один делает 1-2-3-4-5-4-3-2-1, а второй 5-6-7-8-9-10-9-8-7-6-5. Подтягиваемся по очереди, пока партнер подтягивается, вы отдыхаете и наоборот.

2. Uneven pull ups. Удобно делать на finger board с разными уровнями, либо если есть только перекладина, перекиньте через нее полотенце или скакалку (тянущийся жгут тоже подойдет, чем он более тянущийся, тем соответственно сложнее), одна рука на перекладине, другая ниже на полотенце и подтягиваемся до максимума. Потом меняем руки.

3. Frenchies. Подтягиваемся полностью, опускаемся на треть (135%), зависаем на 5-7 секунд, опускаемся до 90%, зависаем на 5-7 секунд, опускаемся до 45%, еще 5-7 секунд, вниз и повторяем до максимума.

4. Typewriter pull ups.
Подтягиваемся и перекатываемся слева направо и обратно до максимума. Можно делать на кольцах.

5. Alternate grip pull ups.
Одна рука в положении pull up, вторая - chin up, подтягиваемся по максимуму, отдыхаем, меняем руки и опять.

6. Ноги под 90% и подтягиваемся до максимума, не опуская ног. Работает кор + опять же подтягивания.

7. Подтягиваемся к левой руке, ноги тянем влево вверх, опускаемся, тоже самое вправо. По максимуму.

8. Weighted pull ups. Очень полезно для развития чистой силы (я считаю, что это самое главное упражнение на подтягивания для болдерингиста, делая его, можно практически ничего больше не делать). Одеваем обвязку или лифтерский пояс для веса, вешаем гантельку или блин, вес - максимальный для 3х подтягиваний, последнее должно быть очень сложно. Делаем 5 подходов по 3 раза.

9. Explosive pull ups. Динамические подтягивания с выпрыгиванием до груди над перекладиной. В идеале должен практически получаться выход силой. Я не умею.

10. One arm pull up. Тоже не умею :) Если вы умеете, то вам весь этот комплекс нафиг не нужен, вы и сами все знаете ;)

Sunday, November 1, 2015

Core work

@home

1. Planking - 2min 
2. Side planking - 1 min each side
3. One leg, one arm planking - 1min each side
4. Superman - 1 min
5. Supine oblique ball twist - 1min

6. Reverse press up - 1min

7. Knee to elbow planking - 1min
8. Two step bicycles
Unlike normal bicycles, keep one leg extended as if you are keeping your foot on a far away hold. Keep that foot extended as you straighten your bent leg, match feet, then bend the other leg.
9. Suitecases


10. V-ups

11. Hollow hold


12. На нижний пресс. Ложимся на пол, ноги под углом 90 вверх, лопатки отрываем от пола и тянемся поочередно то к одной ноге, то к другой.

@gym

1. Planking on ball - 2min


2. Side planking - 1 min each side
3. Extend elbows away from body and back on ball - 1 min



4. Knee to ball or Advanced 
Straighten leg, then keep it raised as you swoop it back behind you. Lower back to plank then repeat with your other leg. Focus on seamless transitions WITHOUT your core leaning from side-to-side.



5. Legs on ball, one arm up ahead or up on the side (harder)



6. Back extension - 1min

7. Legs to chest on ball or TRX.


8. Feet to hands on pull up bar

9. Feet to sides on pull up bar 


10. One leg up on pull up bar


Monday, August 24, 2015

Tahoe Rim Trail gear list

BACKPACK

Gossamer Gear Gorilla

Personal Sleeping Gear
Sleeping pad Nemo Short with sack - 296gr
Sleeping bag Z-Packs 30 short in compression sack - 460gr
Total Personal Sleeping Gear: 662gr

Personal Kitchen Gear
Collapsible cup - 65gr
Titanium spoon - 10gr
Opsack for trash - 17gr
Total personal kitchen: 132gr

Personal Care Items
Pocket shampoo - 14gr
Towel - 23gr
Hair brush - 6gr
Tooth brush - 10gr
Wet wipes - 53gr
Toilet paper in zip lock - 38gr
Diclofenac - 71gr
CeraVe face wash - 35gr
CeraVe moisturizing lotion - 35gr
Eye cream - 17gr
Chapstick - 11gr
8x daily liners in zip lock- 12gr
Hand sanitizer?
Total personal care - 350gr

Other Personal Gear
2x Platipus water bottle (1.5 or 2l)
Headlamp BD Storm w batteries - 119gr
Extra batteries (4 in zip lock) - 49gr
iPhone in case - 171gr
Mosquito net (face) - 28gr
Sun charged battery panel 
USB cables for watch and iphone
Charger USB to use in hotel
Total other gear no water: 


Cloths to carry in pack
Patagonia puffy shirt - 140gr
Brooks wind jacket - 120gr
Montane rain jacket - 167gr
Montane featherlite pants - 115gr
Extra socks - 31gr
Extra panties - 23gr
Sleeping socks - 63gr
Merino shirt long sleeve (for sleeping) - 149gr
Merino pants (for sleeping) -151gr
Thick merino shirt
Thick merino pants
Gloves - 26gr
Hat - 31gr
Swim suite
Total cloths (pack weight) - 1035gr

Food (2-3lbs/day)
7x Mary Jane Farms
3x Snickers small bites
Cookies from Russian store
Justin's Chocolate/Hazelnut paste 

Not pack weight (to wear & hiking poles)
Shirt
Shorts
Sport bra
Panties
Socks
Ankle brace
Cap
Shoes La Sportiva Helios
Bike gloves - 42 gr
Hiking poles BD ultradistance 100cm - 280gr
Watch

GROUP GEAR (split between 3)
Tent:
Tent Hexamid (with fixing kit and extra cord) - 560gr (no stakes)
Stakes for tent - 63gr
Tent total with stakes - 623gr

Kitchen:
MSR Reactor + medium jar fuel - 870gr
Extra medium jar fuel - 380gr
MSR backup stove - 112gr
Squeeze water filter in stuff sack (no syringe) - 152gr
Ursa sack - 223gr
Coffee + tea in zip lock - 157gr
Total kitchen: 2000gr

Medical/blister kit:
Kinesio tape - 60gr
Tincture of benzoin - 25gr(??)
Ibuprofen
Blister kit + Bandaids - 87gr
Neosporin - 29gr
Bodyglide - 42gr
Total medical kit: 268gr

Small items:
2x Lighter -22 gr
Duct tape - 16gr
Knife - 26gr
Small scissors - 19gr
Wash concentrate (citronella) - 54gr
Sunscreen - 28gr
Toothpaste - 26gr
Ben's insect repellent - 52gr
Syringe for filter - 30
Sweet water backup purifier - 76
Total small items: 460gr

DROP BOX (mailed to Tahoe City, CA)

7x Mary Jane Farms
Cookies from Russian store
Tape
Extra socks
Wet wipes
Hematogen
Clean cloths?

Sunday, July 26, 2015

Wonderland trail gear - FINAL

PERSONAL GEAR

Food
3x MJF Mac&Cheese - 407gr (netto 354gr) / 1395kcal
1x MJF Alfredo Pasta - 143gr (netto 127gr) / 435kcal
1x MJF Jambalaya - 146gr (netto 127gr) / 450kcal
1x MJF Red Pesto Pasta - 132gr (netto 113gr) / 405kcal
Total 828gr (netto 721gr) / 2685kcal

MJF Oatmeal - 414gr (in 3 zip locks) / 1500kcal

Beef Jerky (in zip lock) - 181gr / 581kcal


Blue Diamond roasted salted almonds (in zip lock) - 115gr/698kcal

4x Core Hearty Oatmeal to go (cashew cacao with whey protein) - 365gr/1400kcal
1x Core Hearty Oatmeal to go (walnut banana) - 93gr/340kcal
3x Bearded brothers bars (various) - 174 gr/673kcal
25x Larabars (various) - 98gr/400kcal
1x Skout cherry-vanilla bar - 50gr/180kcal
10x Hematogen - 507gr / 1700kcal
Total for bars: 945gr / 3673kcal

4x Justin's Chocolate Hazelnut butter - 140gr (180kcal/pack = 720)
5x Justin's Maple Almond butter - 171gr (190kcal/pack = 950)
Total for nut butters: 311gr / 1670kcal

Total food: 2794gr / 10807kcal (~3600kcal/day)

Drinks
4x Starbucks Caffe Mocha - 157gr / 600kcal
5x Lemonade concentrate - 307gr / 800kcal
Tequilla in plastic jar - 618gr
Total drinks: 1142gr / 1400kcal

Personal Sleeping Gear
Sleeping pad Nemo Short with sack - 296gr
Sleeping bag Z-Packs 30 short in compression sack - 460gr
Total Personal Sleeping Gear: 662gr

Personal Kitchen Gear
Collapsible cup - 65gr
Titanium spoon - 10gr
Plate for oatmeal (do I need it?) - 40gr
Opsack for trash - 17gr
Total personal kitchen: 132gr

Personal Care Items
Pocket shampoo - 14gr
Pocket body wash - 14gr
Towel - 23gr
Hair brush - 6gr
Tooth brush - 10gr
Wet wipes - 53gr
Toilet paper in zip lock - 38gr
Diclofenac - 71gr
CeraVe face wash - 35gr
CeraVe moisturizing lotion - 35gr
Eye cream - 17gr
Chapstick - 11gr
Elidel gel - 7gr
Halog ointment (anti-itch) - 4gr
8x daily liners in zip lock- 12gr
Total personal care - 350gr

Other Personal Gear
Bladder with 1.5l water - 1522gr
Headlamp BD Storm w batteries - 119gr
Extra batteries (4 in zip lock) - 49gr
iPhone in case - 171gr
Mosquito net (face) - 28gr
Total other gear no water: 367gr
Total other gear with water: 1889gr

Cloths to carry in pack
Patagonia puffy shirt - 140gr
Brooks wind jacket - 120gr
Montane rain jacket - 167gr
Montane featherlite pants - 115gr
Extra socks - 31gr
Extra panties - 23gr
Sleeping socks - 63gr
Merino shirt long sleeve (for sleeping) - 149gr
Merino pants (for sleeping) -151gr
Gloves - 26gr
Hat - 31gr
Total cloths (pack weight) - 1035gr

TOTAL PERSONAL GEAR ONLY PACK WEIGHT (NO PACK): 6482gr
TOTAL PERSONAL GEAR PACK WEIGHT WITH PACK (535gr): 7017gr
TOTAL PERSONAL PACK WEIGHT WITH PACK AND WATER (1522gr): 8539gr


Not pack weight (to wear & hiking poles)
Shirt
Shorts
Sport bra
Panties
Socks
Ankle brace
Cap
Shoes La Sportiva Mutant or Helios
Bike gloves - 42 gr
Hiking poles BD ultradistance 100cm - 280gr
Watch

GROUP GEAR (split between 3)
Tent:
Tent Hexamid (with fixing kit and extra cord) - 560gr (no stakes)
Stakes for tent - 63gr
Tent total with stakes - 623gr

Kitchen:
MSR Reactor + medium jar fuel - 870gr
Extra medium jar fuel - 380gr
MSR backup stove - 112gr
Squeeze water filter in stuff sack (no syringe) - 152gr
Ursa sack - 223gr
Coffee + tea in zip lock - 157gr
Total kitchen: 2000gr

Medical/blister kit:
Kinesio tape - 60gr
Tincture of benzoin - 25gr(??)
Ibuprofen + Benadryl - 56gr
Blister kit + Bandaids - 87gr
Neosporin - 29gr
Bodyglide - 42gr
Total medical kit: 268gr

Small items:
Lighter -11gr
Matches in waterproof box - 42gr
Duct tape - 16gr
Knife - 26gr
Small scissors - 19gr
Wash concentrate (citronella) - 54gr
Sunscreen - 28gr
Toothpaste - 26gr
Ben's insect repellent - 52gr
Syringe for filter - 30
Sweet water backup purifier - 76
Total small items: 460gr

Map

TOTAL GROUP GEAR: 3245gr (~1081gr/person)

Suggested group gear distribution:
Olga: Tent with stakes (623) + Small items (460) = 1083 + map
Nik: MSR Reactor with fuel jar (870) + ursa sack (223)  = 1093gr
Max: extra fuel (380) + backup stove (112) + filter (152)  +coffee and tea (157gr) + Medical Kit (268) =  1069


TOTAL MY GEAR WITH PACK AND WATER: 9622 gr